Monday, July 16, 2018

What do a trencher & losing weight have in comment?

Well, just another side effect of losing weight. Over medication! Seems the dosage for my previous weight was too much for my slimmer self. That and a full day wrestling with a trenching machine, I decided some chest pains were in order.

Long story short, a late night trip to the ER and an overnight in the hospital, 4 blood draws over time showed I was not having any kind of heart issue. Pulse rate in the 40s kinda freaked everyone out. Drop one of my meds and the problem has resolved itself....follow up tomorrow with my PHP and we adjust my meds accordingly. Most likely a stress test to rule out any issues.



Thanks to my wonderful wife, Donna, for all her support and love!

Stay Tuned!

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Work Progresses

Part of the land prep for the Pole Barn is to solve some of the rainfall issues inherent in our landscape. I wanted the run-off from the barn to be collected and routed to our pond. easy enough, gutters drain to down spouts, to pipes under the ground and into the pond. Simple, gravity is always in play.  Additionally, I needed to address the pooling of excess rain water in our back yard. A low area was wet and muddy for a week or more after any moderate rain. The "Dudes" would come in wet, muddy and sometimes a little smelly.



Simple, establish the line of flow through the pasture, mark it, trench it and install a French drain (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_drain). Turns out I needed about 300 feet in order to get to the pond. Yesterday I rented a trencher from Tri-County Rental Center for 4 hours, turns out I needed more time then that and ended up with a whole day charge.



















No matter, the trenching got done and so was I. Phew! still have some hand work to do and make the trench sections connect and prep for the install of the soil filter fabric, gravel and perforated pipe. The gravel arrives on Tuesday.

I'll call back Horst Excavating to spread the dirt pile over the French drain and grade to the pole barn site. Sometime this fall I may top coat the area soil and seed it. We'll see how the budget looks. What the heck, weeds are free. I'll still need to connect the barn downspouts to the system but will do that after the barn is up. Don't need to put in the pipe and have the post hole digger dig them up. I'm making sure that the work I do does not impact the barn builder. Need to have his work go smoothly.

During my breaks I am working on a floor-plan using Sketchup. This should help me in locating plumbing, sewer and electric stubs so I can get those in before concrete. When I have something presentable, I'll post it in the blog.

Thanks for your interest!

Stay Tuned!

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

And so it begins...

After some back and forth with local barn builders and equipment operators I was able to determine where the barn should go on the property. My original plan was too big and too expensive. So I downsized but the new plan will still have plenty of room for the projects I want to tackle.

The barn will be 40’ W by 50’ L and 16’ H with two 12’ x 14’ overhead doors. The best place for access and minimum lot prep was located about 50’ from the road in the pasture just north/west of the house. I also plan on a 20' concrete patio off the back side, a good place to sit and relax and maybe wash a vehicle or two. Here is a rough approximation of the pole barn in a satellite view of our property. The yellow is where the building will sit, it doesn't show the 20' extension off the back.


Our 41’ fifth wheel will fit inside without the Freightliner but will most likely stay stored outside. When I need to perform some work on it, inside it will be. I really hate rolling around in the gravel to work on it. Six inches of concrete will support any of the toys we have as well as the 10,000 two-post lift I plan to buy. The pad will be stubbed out for a bathroom/shower as well as a small kitchen area. Layout to be determined.

The first step:
  • Get the ground prepped. This included fence and post removal, staking the foot print, grading the driveway and fill to level the building footprint.

Fence removal:

Driveway:
  • Prep the culvert
  • Install 40’ of 12” culvert pipe (Later replaced with smaller pipe due to damage and height)
  • Fill with gravel


Building footprint:
  • Skim off any top soil and pile South of the building site. This will be used later for backfill and grading.
  • Bring entire site to grade (many, many loads of fill brought in). Additional area on sides (10’) and rear (20’) brought to grade as well
  • I will compact this area per concrete contractor’s guidance.

Here are some pictures of the progress (click for larger photos):



Stay Tuned!